You may have heard me say that humidity more than temperature affects the power output of the H2sx
The bike being supercharged compounds the weather conditions making it more affected by weather changes then a N/A motor.
In the below dyno runs the ONLY change is the weather. Notice the temperature is only 5 degrees different but the humidity is 19 percent less. This resulted in a surprising 11 hp
Also notice that the humidity was still 50 percent. So not exactly dry, but it illustrates the point.
The bike being supercharged compounds the weather conditions making it more affected by weather changes then a N/A motor.
In the below dyno runs the ONLY change is the weather. Notice the temperature is only 5 degrees different but the humidity is 19 percent less. This resulted in a surprising 11 hp
Also notice that the humidity was still 50 percent. So not exactly dry, but it illustrates the point.
I have received feedback from a few people saying they raced such and such bike and the results were not what they expected. The h2SX not being as dominant as they would have thought. When I ask what rpm they started the race at and where they shifted, it is clear why this is.
Look at any dyno chart on a flashed bike and you can easily see the bike makes more power the more you spin it. This means you have to spin it up there to make max acceleration. This is different then a large displacement N/A bike. For every 1000 rpms your not revving it out you are leaving approx. 10 hp on the table.
So to get the most from the bike:
1)Start in as low a gear as possible. This may be first gear for many races. Do not just whack it open! Roll it open aggressively and make it easier for the wheelie control to do its job
2) rev it up to just before redline between shifts. This does not mean 12.5 or 13 k on the tach. The tach like the tachs on most bikes reads optimistic. This means for a 13k redline the tach will almost show 14k. Do a pull and watch where the rev limiter kicks in. you want to shift a couple hundred rpm.s below this, Every shift
3)Practice: Both how aggressively you can roll on the throttle each gear and getting your shift points down. You wanted a beast for a bike. You have to learn how to get the most from it!! Practice will reduce your anxiety about how fast you can roll it on and letting it rev out.
Look at any dyno chart on a flashed bike and you can easily see the bike makes more power the more you spin it. This means you have to spin it up there to make max acceleration. This is different then a large displacement N/A bike. For every 1000 rpms your not revving it out you are leaving approx. 10 hp on the table.
So to get the most from the bike:
1)Start in as low a gear as possible. This may be first gear for many races. Do not just whack it open! Roll it open aggressively and make it easier for the wheelie control to do its job
2) rev it up to just before redline between shifts. This does not mean 12.5 or 13 k on the tach. The tach like the tachs on most bikes reads optimistic. This means for a 13k redline the tach will almost show 14k. Do a pull and watch where the rev limiter kicks in. you want to shift a couple hundred rpm.s below this, Every shift
3)Practice: Both how aggressively you can roll on the throttle each gear and getting your shift points down. You wanted a beast for a bike. You have to learn how to get the most from it!! Practice will reduce your anxiety about how fast you can roll it on and letting it rev out.